Alpinesavvy Extended Rappel. Nov 27, 2018 · Another way to expedite a rappel - the &ldquo

Nov 27, 2018 · Another way to expedite a rappel - the “pre-rig” with an extension Another approach to expediting a group rappel is to have everyone use an extended rappel, and do what's called a “pre-rig”. Nov 25, 2018 · Are you climbing on a moderate glacier, such as a standard route on many Pacific NW volcanoes, without any actual lead climbing? Consider a static rope. Learn a few here. Share your videos with friends, family, and the world Explore beginner climbing techniques, gear tips, and safety essentials at Alpinesavvy to advance your mountaineering skills. ) You don't have to do it this way, use whatever kind of extension you like Yes, this sling is tied through the belay loop. Diagram by Andy Kirkpatrick, from his book “Down”. A flat overhand bend is a good choice for connecting two ropes for a double strand rappel. But . One approach. The Petzl Connect Adjust @petzl_official is a popular tether system, using a short bit of dynamic rope and some clever hardware. However, there are some nuances to doing it correctly, efficiently, and with reduced risk. Thankfully we had enough rope to avoid a single stranded rappel here. The Petzl Connect Adjust @petzl_official is a popular tether system. Explore guides, tips, and gear insights to improve safety and efficiency. Learn how here. It's increasingly popular on a multi pitch climb to have one Grigri and one Reverso style device. Dec 23, 2023 · Alpine Savvy · December 23, 2023 · Setting up a belayed rappel, photo sequence (read caption ) . The second person rigs an extended rappel with autoblock, and puts both rope strands through a standard tube device. (Learned this one from IFMGA Guide Mark Smiley and mtnsense. If you rappel with both strands through your ATC, it's important to remember it's a single strand rappel, and keep your brake hand and third hand/autoblock on the real climbing rope. It transforms the experience of hanging belays. However, unless you have May 7, 2023 · 4,378 likes, 89 comments - alpinesavvy on May 7, 2023: "Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Here’s an elegant way to tie it with a double loop bowline. One carabiner. Unlock premium content, discounts, gear giveaways, and exclusive articles today. ) Rigging an extended rappel (not shown) or using a Grigri or similar assisted braking belay device is a fine idea, because both of these can be easily converted to an ascending system if needed, as we cover here and here. side” and I’ll DM you a link to my detailed article on this. This creates an obstruction on one strand of your rappel rope, that cannot be pulled through the anchor master point. It's plenty strong Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. Connect with Andy: andy-kirkpatrick. Learn some of the advantages of the drop C over the 3:1 Z drag, some easy hacks to make it work even better, and how to overcome a couple of potential problems. com/blog/the-extended-rappel - longer article on my website about this. Here's how to do it. Leave a comment with the words “back. You also get to bend the normal anchor building rules a bit. Here's one way to use this tool: the second is lowered with an ATC on the anchor and the rope through the anchor hardware. The extended rappel has become the standard in rappelling safely off rock climbing routes. The way we teach it is to extend the rappel and then rig an auto block on the brake strands, clipped to a carabiner on the belay loop. This sets up the rope perfectly for the leader to rappel. 3,281 likes · 1 talking about this. May 17, 2024 · Using a skinny pull cord, in combination with a regular climbing rope, allows full length rappels with reduced gear and pack weight. because it's extended, a weighted rope won't tug me around. Jun 17, 2023 · A rope block (aka Reepschnur), is a technique where you block one strand of your rappel rope to prevent it from running through the anchor. Oct 22, 2021 · Pre-rigged rappel for an awkward rap station . The auto block and extended rappel are covered in depth at this tip. alpinesavvy. com. This has the advantage of working with an autoblock backup, if you choose to use it. Jan 14, 2019 · Your ATC Guide or similar plaquette-style belay device is of course great for belay and rappel, but can also be rigged as an ascender. You and your partner are rappelling with a single rope. Maybe a decade ago, the extended rappel was regarded by many as a sort of a fringe Euro rope trick. (This is a crafty yet unconventional way to make a rappel extension, which we're going to cover in another tip soon. Jan 10, 2024 · Backside clove hitch: transition to rappel (Read caption ⤵️) . For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like a hook or carabiner lets the last person to simply clip and lower off; more efficient and lower risk. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Oct 1, 2020 · Using a rappel extension is a good idea for a lot of reasons. But, there’s a few more tricks than the standard set up that can make your life easier. May 7, 2023 · Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. com/instagram 3) Google: "alpinesavvy extended rappel”. Conceptually it's pretty simple. If after doing this they add a third hand autoblock under their device, both strands of the rope are essentially locked in place. Learn multiple ways to rig it, and the pros and cons of each. com for more tips, his podcast Drop C Crevasse rescue: extend the Traxion with a sling or cordelette . Here's my crevasse rescue gear list. Rigging a “courtesy anchor” can Sep 11, 2023 · On rappel in the Tetons, on this particular day I used the Grivel Scream with a Sterling V-TX 5. It's faster, because the moment one person is off rappel Nov 1, 2023 · There are many approaches to crevasse rescue and many choices for what gear to bring. It is also a standard in mountain rescue. So, what exactly is an extended rappel? Simply put, rather than attaching your rappel device directly to your belay loop in the standard manner, you add some sort of runner / carabiner combination to “extend” it farther away from your body. Learn how to create an extended rappel using a 120cm sling. If you put your weight on both strands, the difference in friction going through your device can make the knot start to do some weird things at the anchor. Feb 2, 2019 · A better rappel backup method is to use an autoblock knot with an extended rappel. Here is one of the most Mar 8, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The leader unties, tosses down the second strand of rope, and cleans the anchor. Mar 3, 2023 · DIY - Anchor practice board . May 30, 2022 · Rappelling: on a traversing rappel, pull the correct side . If the brake hand comes off, the autoblock immediately grabs the rope and stops the climber. This gives you a strong connection, double loop redundancy, and it's easy to untie when you're done. For a rappel extension, here we’re using a double bowline tied through the belay loop. com For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: The extended rappel, explained rappel explained Alpinesavvy Rappel — Alpinesavvy How To Rappel With 2 Ropes • boucles d’oreilles en alliage de zinc avec 3 couches de strass,. You toss your rope, and you see that it's too short to reach the ground (or next Jul 26, 2019 · Extending a rappel anchor master point over a ledge can make for an easier rope pull, but a tougher start to the rappel. com For the complete article: 1) see link in Bio, 2) Go here: Feb 27, 2025 · Retreat (aka bail) anchors need to be strong enough for a rappel, use a minimum of gear and cordage, and be simple to rig. Do a safety check, and rappel. Used with permission. Or web search: "alpinesavvy backside” Aug 11, 2023 · A popular approach to crevasse rescue is to use a 2:1 “drop C” as the primary mechanical advantage system. Explore alpine skills, mountaineering, and outdoor adventure tips. Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Cost is about $5 in materials, Mar 8, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. You toss your rope, and you see that it's too short to reach the ground (or next Aug 17, 2022 · Backside clove hitch: transition to rappel . Jun 14, 2019 · Often in alpine climbing, making shorter rappels can minimize the chance of your rope getting hung up. Extended rappel so that the auto block doesn’t get all tangled in the belay device. Here's one solution Jul 5, 2023 · The rope block This extended rappel technique requires the skill and knowledge to use what's called a rope block. ) Jul 10, 2023 · The 100% non-redundant rappel anchor . 4mm rope. i typically rappel with an extended rappel (using a gigajul), where the device is attached to my harness with a double length sling knotted at the center. Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . 140 likes, 17 comments - alpinesavvy on January 17, 2026: "4 ways to to descend with a Grigri Leave a comment with the phrase “RAPTIME” and I'll DM you a link to my detailed article that covers these and lots of other methods. Learn about mechanical advantage techniques for climbing and rescue with Alpinesavvy. com/instagram 3) Google: “alpinesavvy munter rappel”. (Harness and third hand / autoblock not shown for clarity. Extended rappel with a Petzl Connect Adjust . For the complete article: 1) Go here: Mar 29, 2019 · Here's another crafty way to secure the rope strands - a stacked rappel (aka pre-rigged) with an autoblock. Oct 16, 2020 · Another approach, which can further increase speed and reduce risk, is for the second climber with the plaquette belay device to use an extended rappel and pre-rig their device on the rope. Both climbers are now secured by their extended rappel. It is not meant a For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: alpinesavvy. One way to increase your efficiency is for the leader to pre-rig the rappel before they bring up their second. Main concept: keep yourself close to the wall by placing gear. A simple training board like this lets you rig just about any anchor you can imagine: top rope, rappel transitions, multipitch, and more. So, what exactly is an extended rappel? Simply put, rather than attaching your rappel device directly to your belay loop in the standard manner, you add some sort of runner / carabiner combination t Rope ascending with a Grigri and belay device — Alpinesavvy See more than 600 tips for anchors, belay, rappel, wilderness skills, mountaineering, snow & rock climbing, big wall, DIY gear making, first aid, and more. Click the “Get Skilled” menu link to get started. Explore expert tips, NorthWest climbing guides, and mountaineering resources to improve your outdoor skills and trip planning. Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. Yes, we hate to leave gear behind, but if you HAVE to leave your beloved #3 Camalot for a rappel anchor, then do it without hesitation. But how we choose to make our rappel extension ca Oct 13, 2023 · Flat overhand bend - how long a tail? . Here's a trick to mitigate that problem even further. This video is a supplementary educational tool meant for LCSAR members and BASARTs. In reality there are some nuances, and definitely some ways to letha Feb 7, 2019 · Learn a slick method to ascend and descend a fixed rope, with a minimum of gear. The pre-rigged (aka “stacked”) rappel, can improve speed and reduce risk in certain conditions. The second removes the hitch/loop knot and carabiner from the backside of the leader’s clove hitch. Good news: there are some easy ways to eliminate this problem. Mar 25, 2024 · Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . Feb 20, 2020 · Just because you learned to do it a certain way doesn't necessarily mean that's the right approach or current best practice. Working on and around cliffs is inherently dangerous. Let's have a look at some common climbing techniques and explore some alternatives. i fit my device and a second hand backup (if i'm using one) to the rope. Jan 7, 2019 · Both climbers rig an extended rappel and a third hand backup. An active THR subscription is required to view the rest of the Rappelling – classic rappel, extended rappel, tandem rappel, and counterbalance rappel techniques Knots – figure-eight family, overhand, double-overhand-on-a-bite, bowline, double bowline, long-tail bowline, butterfly Bends – double-fisherman’s, overhand flat bend, water bend Hitches – prusik, kliemheist, autoblock, clove, munter, and Discover premium mountaineering and climbing articles, gear tips, and navigation guides to enhance your skills with Alpinesavvy. See some examples, and learn why a major American climbing organization favors the open anchor. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. This means that everyone in your group has their rappel device on a shoulder length runner, and they are all attached to the rope at one time. May 22, 2021 · Rappelling when you have an overhang and/or a traverse can be especially challenging. then my partner attaches a grigri to one strand Extending your rappel device away from your harness has a host of benefits . Apparently, when the rope is loaded from below, occasional device failure can happen for the person above. https://www. Learn all about it here. One tree. and a few problems. Nov 12, 2018 · Using a dedicated extension when rappelling in an alpine setting provides maximum flexibility and efficiency, allows you to move freely near the anchor while being clipped in, and maintains the extension within arms. The Dual Connect Adjust uses dynamic rope and an ergonomic adjuster block to offer continuous adjustability. The leader is always belayed with the Grigri, the second with the Moved Permanently The document has moved here. May 24, 2025 · If you’re rappelling double strand on an extended rappel device, here's a simple technique that allows you to ascend the rope, covered in this article. Explore AlpineSavvy for 400+ tips like this. Dec 12, 2023 · The always terrific Petzl website has a specific caution against a pre-rigged rappel with a Grigri on top. If any single component fails, then YGD (Yer Gonna Die)! . Learn where you can maybe cut a few corners and see examples here. what are May 24, 2025 · If you’re rappelling double strand on an extended rappel device, here's a simple technique that allows you to ascend the rope, covered in this article. Oct 24, 2018 · Using a cordelette is standard practice for many climbers when building multi-piece gear anchors. This goes by various names: knot block, carabiner block, static block, Reepschnur. Here, the backup knot is tied below the brake hand rather than above it. Rappel rope is too short - How would you solve this problem? . Now the first person can rappel with Grigri on a single strand. Note that you need to attach the autoblock to the leg loop, and it might also add an unnecessary extra amount of friction and cluster. Aug 31, 2025 · The pre-rigged rappel anchor and belay . Feb 12, 2024 · Extending your rappel (abseil) device away from your harness after a climb comes with a number of benefits. One sling. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. A fall with the rope clipped like this might damage the dogbone of the lower quickdraw (right) Dec 31, 2018 · Super important - ALWAYS be sure the knots in your rope are untied before you pull your rappel! Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. This lets you do a single strand rappel on the other side. Aug 22, 2022 · Transitioning from climbing to rappelling can take a LONG time. Climbing tips and navigation resources for the savvy alpinist Oct 16, 2020 · Another approach, which can further increase speed and reduce risk, is for the second climber with the plaquette belay device to use an extended rappel and pre-rig their device on the rope. Dec 31, 2018 · Super important - ALWAYS be sure the knots in your rope are untied before you pull your rappel! Note on stacked rappels and ONE stopper knot: This may well be the best solution of all for multi pitch rappelling: Both partners (or at least the second) use an extended rappel and pre-rig with an autoblock backup. The simple question is, what's your life worth? Moved Permanently The document has moved here. Carry a friction hitch or two (especially one that slides easily like a Sterling Hollowblock) and be ready to use it. It allows for a dedicated rappel extension on the fixed arm and a perfectly tensioned anchor connection on the adjustable arm. Here are some more detailed tips about how to handle it. for sure. May 9, 2023 · The quickdraws are extended correctly, but the rope is clipped to the wrong place. Every part of this anchor is non-redundant. See 400+ more tips like this at alpinesavvy. Photo: Adam Fabrikant Be safe: the skinny ropes require some practice, personal testing, and expertise. The 2:1 drop loop “C” is a modern standard for crevasse rescue. Oct 1, 2020 · Here's how to tie a double length/120 cm sling into a double Loop bowline for an extended rappel. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. You need light weight, multifunction, and hopefully be able to combine it with other people on your team to have an effective rescue. Dec 23, 2018 · 3) “Rappel Z” with an extended rappel This is pretty hard to describe in words, so check out the diagram below. Jul 7, 2023 · The “backside clove hitch” offers several options for efficient transitions from climbing to descending. Jun 2, 2024 · So, what exactly is an extended rappel? Simply put, rather than attaching your rappel device directly to your belay loop in the standard manner, you add some sort of runner / carabiner combination to “extend” it farther away from your body. Apr 2, 2023 · Anchors with a “closed” metal chain or ring at the bottom require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. For the complete article: 1) See link in Bio, 2) Go here: alpinesavvy. Mar 26, 2020 · First person rappelling goes on rappel, single strand, blue rope. This is the current gold standard for multi-pitch safety. Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. However, unless you have the fancier twin-armed version called the Dual Connect, there’s not an obvious way to use it as a rappel extension. Alpine Savvy. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Rappelling on a Munter hitch is considered by some to be an outdated technique. .

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